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She wanted to have something she could move in and she definitely, adamantly would not be wearing a corset. Its possible Durran has been clear about where credits due because the dress disappoints on film

So people who were seeing the dress as white and gold were subtracting that blue sky bias from the blue stripes in the photo (making them white) and from the brown stripes (making them yellow)

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Underdress Length=50 1/4"