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[21] The Dutch, French and British East India Companies competed for monopoly of the spice trade in the Indian Ocean but were posed with the problem of payment for spices, which was in gold or silver

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The textiles for such mantillas would have varied from heavy, warm fabrics such as flannel, wool, and velvet in the colder north to light, gauzy fabrics (sometimes embroidered to make head coverings called tocas ) and eventually lace in the warm southern climes

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